Bring Your Designs to Life on Textiles: A Guide to Hand Printing on Fabric
Pamela HainingSomething I love about printmaking is the meditative practice of creating unique, handcrafted designs. Printmaking offers a fun, tactile and experimental creative outlet, while allowing you to explore a wide range of techniques, from linocut to screen printing. There’s no right or wrong way to leave your mark.
In my own printmaking journey, I've discovered that experimenting with different processes not only expands my creative horizons, but also nurtures a sense of calm and concentration. The repetitive, hands-on nature of techniques like block printing has a grounding effect, helping me to quiet my mind and fully immerse myself in the creative flow.
Whether you're a seasoned printmaker or just beginning, I'm excited to share my personal tips and techniques for successful hand printing onto fabric. This versatile medium allows you to translate your designs into a range of practical and decorative textile pieces, from home decor to fashion accessories and gifts.
In this article, I'll guide you through my step-by-step process of hand printing on fabric at home, enabling you to bring your artistic vision to life. From preparing your fabric to selecting the perfect fabric printing inks, you'll learn how to achieve vibrant, washable results that showcase your creative flair.
So, let's dive in and explore the joys of fabric printing!
Prepare Your Fabric
The first step in successful fabric printing is ensuring your material is properly prepared. Start by washing and drying your fabric to remove any sizing or finishes that could interfere with ink adhesion. Be sure the surface is clean, smooth, and free of creases before you begin printing. I find a good quality, medium weight calico works best for hand printing and will readily take fabric inks.
My favourite calico fabric is pre-washed and supplied by Empress Mills in the U.K. Pre-washed fabric isn’t necessary but it saves time during the preparation process.
Empress Mills - Cotton Calico Fabric
Simplicity is Key
When it comes to block designs for textile printing, I find that keeping things simple often yields the most striking results. The flexible nature of soft carve vinyl lino works best with simple designs and print bold, consistent impressions on the fabric surface. Opt for bold, graphic patterns or botanical motifs - the choice is yours!
My favourite soft carve for fabric printing is Mastercut by Essdee, it’s readily available in the U.K., cost effective and handles multiple printing well. I find using a larger V-shaped carving tool best to carve this lino and keep clean lines. Carving too finely can lead to the block crumbling.
Essdee Mastercut - Soft carve lino
Speedball Speedy Carve is another good soft carve lino choice, it handles more detail better but it is more expensive.
Ink Selection Matters
For my block printing projects, I prefer to use water-based screen printing inks for fabric. Yup, you read right! Screen printing inks mix well together to create a rainbow of colours, they dry quickly and when applied with a sponge roller to your block, they print well. Plus they wash beautifully after heat setting and don’t affect the handle of the finished fabric too much.
Speedball Screen Printing Inks for Fabric
If you use screen printing inks, you’ll need a textile fabric roller, which is more absorbent and pick up the thinner ink.
The other type of fabric ink you can use is oil based, which is applied with a standard rubber Breyer (roller) and takes longer to dry but doesn’t need to be heat set for a permanent fixture.
Perfect Your Printing Technique
The actual hand printing process requires firm and deliberate pressure. Make sure you roll your chosen ink out onto a paint try/ink plate so your brayed is equally coated and you can hear an almost tacky sound as you roll. Carefully ink up your lino block, making sure to evenly distribute the ink, by rolling the ink in think layers across your block. Align your block precisely on the fabric, place the inked up surface face down then use even pressure to transfer the design. Repeat this process, paying close attention to registration, until you've covered the desired area.
I find using a brayer to apply pressure to the block gives cleaner results, as well as having a soft padded surface underneath your fabric.
Practise on scrap fabric till you’re happy with your design and ink choices. I often do this to prime my block and find it prints better after a few trial runs. Have fun, take your time and enjoy the process.
Heat for Lasting Durability
If, like me, you decide to use screen printing inks then to ensure your hand printed fabrics last and are washable, be sure to heat set it.
The temperature at which you need to heat set the ink may depend on the brand of ink you use so always check any directions given on the container. Generally, the recommend heat setting is around 160°C which is a cotton setting on a household iron. Use a Teflon sheet or clean tea towel between the iron and your printed fabric to prevent scorching and press for around 2 minutes with your iron.
Heat setting is an important step in the screen printing process because it ensures your designs will last through multiple washes. Always do a test run before heat setting your finished piece.
Endless Possibilities
The beauty of hand printing on fabric is the versatility it offers. I've used my block printed textiles to create everything from furoshiki wrapping cloths and cosy cushion covers to one-of-a-kind lampshades. The options are endless when you combine your printmaking skills with the soft, draping qualities of fabric.
Ready to bring your designs to life on cloth? Gather your supplies, put your printmaking techniques into practice, and get ready to add a touch of handcrafted charm to all your textile projects. I’d love to see what you come up with.